Tbilisi: a city that will surprise you

Tbilisi cannot be understood in a day. The city sits in a narrow gorge, and that geography forces everything to stack up: sixth-century churches, nineteenth-century balconies, shared courtyards and natural wine bars in former workshops.

The Abanotubani district keeps its sulphur baths under brick domes. Booking a private room at the end of the day, after walking down Betlemi street, is a different way to close an afternoon.

The Georgian table deserves its own chapter. Khinkali and khachapuri are only the entrance: the city's kitchens now reinterpret mountain recipes with striking precision.

Our advice: at least three nights, with a historian on the first day and freedom afterwards. Tbilisi is best enjoyed once you know how to read it.